Vacationing Up North in Northern Michigan is wonderful. As they say, “Time spent Up North is not detracted from one’s life.” Most of our time in Michigan has been spent in Michigan’s “Tip-o-the-Mit” region, which runs from about Gaylord and on up, and includes Mackinac City. Petoskey to the West is nice, and so is Cheboygan to the East. We stay in the town of Indian River where there are three rivers (Indian River, Sturgeon River, and Pigeon River) and two large lakes (Burt Lake and Mullett Lake) for paddling, motor boating, sailing, and swimming. There is a very nice soft sand beach on Burt Lake at Burt Lake State Park. Burt Lake and Mullett Lake are both big, glacial, deep, and crystal clear. The Indian River, the largest of the rivers in the town of Indian River, connects Burt Lake and Mullett Lake. Burt Lake State Park on Burt Lake in Indian River is very nice, but campsites fill up quickly. If you don’t camp there, you may still use their beach and boat launch with a day or annual pass (good at all Michigan state parks). Aloha State Park on Mullett Lake is smaller and not quite as nice but a good choice. The Inland Waterway (a navigable series of lakes and rivers) lets you boat from Lake Huron at Cheboygan in the East, as far as Crooked Lake via a small lock on the Crooked River to the west, through a series of rivers and lakes. Much of the land North of Grayling is state-owned, most of which is wild forest and public access. There are thousands of lakes, rivers, streams, floodings, and creeks to explore. We discovered Lake Ferdleman and Lost Lake in 2010 for the first time.
Northern Lower Peninsula. Here is my “short list” of things to see and do in the Tip-O-The-Mit region of Northern Michigan (South of Mackinac Bridge), in no particular order:
1. Mackinac City. (spelled “Mackinac” but pronounced “Mackinaw.”) Quaint little shops, a Mackinac Bridge Museum, a couple of great parks right on the straights (where Lake Michigan and Lake Huron meet), historic fort and light house, and spectacular views of the Mackinac Bridge. Also be sure and visit the Mackinac Bridge Museum above Mama Mia’s Pizza in downtown Mackinac City (http://www.mackinawcity.com/).
2. French Farm Lake. This is a very secluded lake just West of Mackinac City. Public access, abundant wildlife, great for kayaking or paddling. Peaceful wild lake with no development and no motors allowed. Very tranquil and great for wildlife viewing (http://www.fishweb.com/maps/emmet/frenchfarm_lake/index.html).
3. State Fish Hatchery at Oden. This is very close to Crooked Lake, in the town of Oden. It’s one of the most advanced fish hatcheries in the Midwest. They have an old rail car that was once used to carry fish to stock the lakes and rivers of Northern Michigan. It is now a museum. They have very good guided tours, a nice nature lodge, and a lot of hiking paths and places where you can feed the fish in both ponds and raceways. Worth the trip even if you are not a fisher. Not far from the hatchery on the other side of the road, right on Crooked Lake is a nice township park (http://www.visitpetoskeymichigan.com/stories/oden_state_fish_hatchery_dnr_petoskey_northern_michigan).
4. Vivio’s Pizza in Indian River. North woods lodge style restaurant, a local favorite with very good pizza and an old-time north woods lodge atmosphere (http://www.mynorth.com/My-North/Food-Wine/Restaurants/index.php?city=Indian+River&view=details&itm=937).
5. Inn Between in Indian River. Eat fresh lake perch sandwiches and sit river-side on the Indian River. Lots of boat traffic idling through and often you’ll see antique restored wooden boats cruising the waterway. Good food and a good view (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g42334-d1158061-Reviews-The_Inn_Between-Indian_River_Cheboygan_County_Michigan.html).
6. Ocqueoc Falls. This is the only named falls in the lower peninsula of Michigan. You can wade in the Ocqueoc River and into the falls. Also wade upstream and look for wildlife. Nice park here too. Near Onaway, or about 1/2 hr. East of Indian River (http://www.fishweb.com/maps/presqueisle/ocqueoc/falls/index.html).
7. Kayak or canoe the Sturgeon River. This is a class I/class II trout stream, all natural flow, with lots of strainers and deadheads. A lot of fun to kayak or canoe, but be prepared to fall out of the boat! We kayak this river at least once a year. Swift-moving, but not deep. Put in at Rondo down near Wolverine, and paddle back (North) as far as Burt Lake. We stay at Indian River Motel and Cabins when we go Up North, which is right on the Sturgeon River. There are a couple of outfitters in Indian River who will rent you canoes or kayaks and take you up the river to put in. You can also tube this river, and the same outfitters also rent float tubes (http://www.fishweb.com/maps/cheboygan/sturgeon/index.html).
8. Lodging: We stay at Indian River Motel and Cabins in Indian River. Quaint, low-key, locally-owned by a very nice Polish family and very accommodating. Place is a little run down though. One of the few remaining old-style north woods tourist camps in the area (plenty of old-style motels though). Call the proprietors John & Juanita Jankowski at 231-238-7406. Cabins 22 and 27 are my favorites. They’re both on a bend of the mighty Sturgeon River, which is only about ten steps from your cabin. Other good options for cabin lodging in Indian River are Woodlands Resort on M-27 South of Indian River, Fay Martin’s River Resort on the Indian River, and The Pines, also on Indian River. If you prefer motel lodging, there is Star Gate Motel, Nor-Gate Motel, Northwoods Inn, and a few others. None of the motels are on the water, with the exception of Crooked River Lodge in Alanson, which is about an 20 minute drive Northwest of Indian River out M-68.
9. Legs Inn: This unique and fascinating restaurant in Cross Village, about 20 miles north of Harbor Springs, offers Polish and American food in a dark Up North wood atmosphere. They also have a well-stocked bar with craft and American industrial beers as well as mixed drinks. Situated near the shore of Lake Michigan with good lake views, you can dine inside or out. Absolutely worth the drive. (www.legsinn.com)
Eastern Upper Peninsula. Here is my “short list” of things to see and do in the U.P. of Michigan, all not far from Mackinac Bridge (North of Mackinac Bridge), also in no specific order:
1. Whitefish Point. This is where the Edmund Fitzgerald went down, and there is a life-saving station, lighthouse, and museum there. There is also a nationally-known bird sanctuary there if you’re into bird watching at all. In fact Whitefish Point is smack dab in the migration route for many, many species of migratory birds (http://www.exploringthenorth.com/whitefish/whitefish.html).
2. St. Ignace. This town is just over the Mackinac Bridge. It’s a small town right on the Straits of Mackinac where Lake Huron and Lake Michigan meet. There is a nice (but small) state park right in St. Ignace just East of the bridge. The entrance is behind a Glen’s Grocery store I think. Turn East or Right on the first St. Ignace exit, and take another right fairly quickly behind the grocery store. This is Straits State Park
(http://www.michigandnr.com/parksandtrails/Details.aspx?id=427&type=SPRK).
3. Kitch-iti-ki-pi (or “Big Spring). This is an amazing spring that shoots out 10,000 gal of water per minute. It’s located North of Manistique, which is West on US Rt. 2 out of St. Ignace. The clarity of the spring is AMAZING, so don’t miss this one. You pull yourselves over the lake on a big wooden raft attached to a steel cable. It is now part of Palms Book State Park. Well worth the drive (http://www.uppermichiganwaterfalls.com/Kitchitikipi.html). The pictures here on the website do NOT do it justice, it’s much more beautiful in person.
4. Cut River Gorge. This is where the Cut River empties into Lake Michigan. Also just off US Rt. 2 between St. Ignace and Manistique. Beautiful views, and a good walk to the bottom, at 231 steps. I have heard if you follow the Cut River upstream, there is good paddling. We have not done that however (http://hunts-upguide.com/epoufette_cut_river_bridge___picnic_area.html).
5. Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. This is a very picturesque area on the South shores of Lake Superior, the furthest we’ve gone into the UP. It’s toward the middle of the UP, and near Grand Marias. Incredible rock formations, waterfalls, and the lighthouse boat tour is worth the time. In fact, speaking of waterfalls, there are many in the UP that are absolutely beautiful. I learned by mistake, don’t take the air tour of Pictured Rocks, take the boat tour. The formations are much more majestic when seen from below, not from above in a small plane (http://www.nps.gov/piro/ and http://picturedrocks.com/).
6. Castle Rock, Mystery Spot, Deer Park. These are “tourist traps” in and around St. Ignace if you’re into that kind of thing. We are, mainly for the boys (me being one of them). Castle Rock is especially interesting to climb (http://hunts-upguide.com/st__ignace_castle_rock.html). If you want to camp, the Castle Rock Campark is very nice, very wooded, and run by some very nice folks. We have camped at several campgrounds in and round Mackinac (lower peninsula) and St. Ignace (upper peninsula), and our favorite by far is this one (http://www.castlerockcampark.com/).
7. Tahquamenon Falls. One of the better-known falls in the U.P. The brown color in the water is from iron, not silt. The lower falls has an area where you can rent a row boat and row out to an island where you can explore the lower portion of the falls up close. When we go, we always rent the boat and paddle over for the best view (http://www.exploringthenorth.com/tahqua/tahqua.html).
8. Brevoort Lake and Little Brevoort Lake (also called Round Lake).
Excellent paddling here. Not far north of US RT. 2, and West of St. Ignace (http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Brevort+Lake,+MI&hl=en&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=33.29802,86.572266&t=h&z=13).
9. Mackinac Island. But remember to pronounce it “Mackinaw” and everyone will think you’re a local. “Mackinaw” is the phoenitic spelling for “Mackinac” which is often used by tourists businesses to force the correct pronunciation. Here you can ride your bicycles around the perimeter of the island, which is about eight miles over fairly flat ground. If you’re more interested in getting off the beaten path and up for heavier paddling, biking into the interior of the island is a treat. Many different rock formations are here, including Sugar Loaf Rock, Skull Cave, Crack in the Island, Arch Rock, and many more. You’ll also find an old rifle range from the war of 1812, Fort Mackinac, and older fort now in ruins above Fort Mackinac, the airport, horse stables, countless nature trails, and assorted wild life. Back in town on Mackinac Island, you’ll find old restored buildings housing curio shops, restaurants, two butterfly houses, a haunted theatre, and more. A visit to Mackinac Island wouldn’t be complete without at least of glimpse of Grand Hotel, which was made famous in film in the 1980’s movie “Somewhere in Time.” There are three ferry lines to take you from either St. Ignace or Mackinac City over to the island and back. Shepler’s, Arnold Line, and Star Line. All ferry lines charge the same fee, with discounts for children and groups (http://www.mackinac.com/ and http://www.grandhotel.com/activities/mackinac-island).
Lastly here is a nice map-style guide of the UP that I found useful. And the folks who run the business, a husband and wife by the last name of Hunt are very helpful on the phone. I just wish they made one for the lower peninsula! Here is a link to their guide. They have a paper folding map-style version you can purchase, or just browse their website: http://hunts-upguide.com/up_travel_map.html
-Steve Stultz
